Milan Fashion Week has come to an end and it’s time to weigh up. Through crowded streets, celebrities dressed in the latest styles, and a whiff of “the future”, we’ve seen many things (beautiful and ugly!). And now? We’re going to unwind the threads of this discourse that has had many young brands as its protagonists. Well yes, because alongside the historical brands that rendered Italian fashion to be famous worldwide, a new generation of designers who don’t struggle to get noticed (and I’ll add appreciated, too) parade their creations. In a calendar rich with presentations, save the dates and events, Milan Fashion Week left ample space to the young brands. Take a peek at some of the latest SS 2020 collections…
Tiziano Guardini – “Earth needs heart”, Tiziano Guardini exclaims through the canvas of his T-shirts. On the corner of Palazzo Reale, sustainability dresses models who move harmoniously between the rigour of classic tailored gowns, delicate and feminine dresses, transparence; but also vivid prints of coral, mermaids, shells, marine elements that symbolise water and its essential importance. The myth of Atlantis thus influences a collection that is respectful towards the environments, part of the brand’s philosophy, that conjugates aesthetic beauty with deep research into textiles and green materials.
Calcaterra – Essentiality, monochrome, material. Calcaterra’s SS 2020 collection parades itself on the notes of four colours: white, black, beige, red. Its woman, ethereal, dresses in emotions as well as in garments. Clean lines and tailored cuts complete the circle of suits, dresses and maxi dresses, that ably play with their volumes, sometimes exaggerating, while every so often knots, bows and fringes peep out, as is habitual.
Act n°1 -Inspirations and multicultural looks move on a black catwalk covered with water. Trenches with XL sleeves, sweaters that combine with feminine slip dresses, drawings, feathers and that double personality that’s alive with grace and power at the same time. This is how Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin will dress the woman for the SS 2020, with elegant and harmonious contemporaneity.
MRZ – Colours, flavours, atmospheres that come from afar. Simona Marziali creates and combines urban and ethnic pieces with mastery, bringing life to a collection that diverts from the schemes. Overlays and modern shapes unite with natural tones, wriggles of red, geometric designs and artisanal working processes.
Brognano – Ball gowns in tulle, over-sized shirts that appear to have been stolen from “his” wardrobe, sponge turbans on the head and an intoxicating spirit of lightness that renders the Brognano woman irresistible. Among sky shades, the brightness of white, the delicacy of the wisteria, yellow, green…the designer unites masculinity, femininity and tailoring in a unique and exclusive way. In perfect Brognano style.
Marco de Vincenzo – So many colours, one collection: Marco de Vincenzo’s SS 2020 collection gets paraded by the shore at the Darsena del Naviglio in Milan. Monochromatic looks replace prints and the brand’s typical tonal mixes, now concentrating on the plots and the processes. The archetypes of the female wardrobe get reinterpreted, re-read in a new way: from the tube skirt to the suit, from the crop top to the cocktail dress. Romantic, beautiful, distant from street style, the Marco de Vincenzo woman dresses with hourglass shapes, defined dresses, floating volumes and sparkling garments.
Gabriele Colangelo – A complex beauty, controlled up to the last detail, dresses in a bewitching simplicity. Long working processes, experimentation of plots and deep material research combine with a modernist aesthetic made of lightness as much as of tailoring. Inserts, weaves and particular details render every look powerful with its own balanced identity.
GCDS – Irony, fantasy, colour. GCDS parades a collection that will not pass unobserved. The crocheted micro bikinis, denim with camouflage inserts, bold prints, pop tones, T-shirts, sweaters and the indispensable logo…Giuliano Calza speaks strongly and clearly through his brand, managing to involve and conquer fashion addicts and others. A charge of energy, a fresh and young made-in-Italy brand that doesn’t renounce the foundations that tailoring gives, whilst dressing in novelty.
Ultràchic – From check to flowers, from planets to prints of old postcards: between the elegance of shapes and the joy colors, Ultràchic tells a woman who knows how to play. playing with style. Romantic printed dresses, light skirts, the femininity of lace but also jackets, tailored cuts and technical fabrics: a complete, elegant wardrobe, perfect for many different occasions.